’O Rtaglio — Uova al Tegamino con Prosciutto
Two fried eggs with soft orange yolks in a small pan over crispy rendered prosciutto, with bread alongside
This was one of my father's favourite ways of cooking eggs. I will be honest about my side of it: as a boy I did not really like the taste of prosciutto crudo that had been cooked — there is a sharpness it takes on in the pan that my child's palate refused. I came around to it later, the way you come around to most of the things your parents loved.
The name is pure Naples. 'O rtaglio — from ritagli, "trimmings": the tasty offcuts of prosciutto and other cured meats left over at the deli counter, sold cheap and used to flavour a pan of eggs. It is cucina povera in its purest form — nothing wasted, the fat of the ham rendered down into a seasoning more precious than any oil, the eggs cracked straight over it, the bread waiting for the scarpetta.
Why use the trimmings, not a fresh slice?
The offcuts of an aged prosciutto carry a high proportion of fat to lean, and it is the fat that matters here: rendered slowly in the pan it releases the cured meat's salt and umami into the cooking surface, seasoning the eggs from below. A neat slice of lean prosciutto would crisp and shrink without giving the same depth. The trimmings were cheaper and, for this dish, simply better — the economy and the flavour pointing the same way, as they so often do in a poor kitchen.
Tap to enlarge — ’O Rtaglio: il prosciutto, le uova, la scarpetta
Recipe — ’O Rtaglio — Uova al Tegamino con Prosciutto
Serves 2 · about 10 minutes
- 100–120 g prosciutto crudo trimmings — strips or small cubes
- 4 eggs the freshest
- 1 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
- Black pepper freshly ground
- Bread for the scarpetta
Two small variations my family allowed: a drop of tomato cooked in with the prosciutto, for a version that leans toward eggs in purgatory; or cooked-ham trimmings instead of crudo, milder and the one I preferred as a child. It belongs with the rest of how Naples cooks eggs — quick, frugal, and built around bread.