Deliziosa Napoletana
Hazelnut cream, pasta frolla, a ring of toasted nuts
A round finger pastry built on contrast: two thin, crisp disks of pasta frolla around a soft hazelnut cream, the exposed edge rolled in toasted hazelnuts, the top buried in powdered sugar. A fixture of the Sunday vassoio delle paste, easy to overlook next to the more famous names on the tray and worth stopping for anyway.
Naples' pastry tray gets crowded with famous names — sfogliatella, babà, the whole pan di spagna family — and the deliziosa napoletana tends to sit quietly among them, a round, unassuming finger pastry that isn't sponge-based at all. It's built on pasta frolla instead: two thin disks of the same shortcrust used in every crostata on this blog, sandwiching a hazelnut cream rather than jam or fruit. It shows up on the Sunday tray as reliably as anything else, just without the name recognition.
What makes it worth knowing is the filling, which isn't a single cream but two combined: a hazelnut buttercream — butter beaten with pasta di nocciole, hazelnut paste — lightened by folding in a small batch of plain crema pasticcera. The pastry cream is what keeps a straight buttercream from being too heavy or too sweet for a bite-sized pastry; the hazelnut paste is what makes it unmistakably this pastry and not any other cream-filled cookie. Once the two disks are pressed together, the cream squeezes slightly out at the edge — that ring gets rolled in toasted, chopped hazelnuts, and the top is buried under a heavy dusting of powdered sugar. The contrast is the whole point: crisp, short pastry against soft cream, smooth cream against the crunch of the nut edge.
The variations follow the same logic as most pastry-tray staples: swap the hazelnut paste and hazelnuts for pistachio for a green-tinted version, work dark chocolate chips into the cream or use a cocoa frolla for a chocolate one, or — the faster home version — replace the buttercream entirely with sweetened ricotta and chocolate chips, lighter and quicker than making a proper buttercream from scratch.
The recipe
Makes about 8-10 small pastries, depending on the cutter size.
Related
Buon appetito.