Crostata della Babbaiola
Naples' other ricotta tart
Not pastiera. This is Posillipo's answer to the ricotta tart — no wheat berries, no candied fruit, no orange-blossom water. Just ricotta folded into a silky lemon pastry cream, baked under a lattice.
Ask most people outside Naples to name the city's ricotta tart and they'll say pastiera, and they wouldn't be wrong exactly — just incomplete. The crostata della babbaiola, sometimes just "la babbaiola," comes from Posillipo, and it takes ricotta somewhere pastiera never goes: no cooked wheat, no candied citron, no orange-blossom water. Instead, the ricotta is worked smooth and folded into a proper lemon pastry cream, so what fills the shell is closer to a lightened custard than to pastiera's dense, grainy interior.
The name is a nod to its inventor rather than a description of the tart itself — the story passed down is that a Neapolitan pastry chef known for her babà earned the nickname "la babbaiola," and this tart, built from pastry scraps and a rich lemon-ricotta cream, ended up carrying her name instead of a more literal one. Whether that's precise history or the kind of origin story that attaches itself to any well-loved recipe, it's the name the tart goes by across Naples today.
The technique is really two components brought together rather than one filling made at once. A lemon crema pasticcera is cooked first — milk and cream infused with lemon peel, thickened with egg yolks and cornstarch, finished with a splash of fresh lemon juice once it's off the heat — and cooled completely under plastic wrap pressed to the surface. Separately, well-drained ricotta is pushed through a sieve and beaten smooth with powdered sugar. Only once both are ready do they get folded together, which is what gives the final filling its texture: silkier and lighter than a ricotta filling made alone, with the lemon cream doing the work of smoothing out ricotta's natural graininess rather than masking it.
For anyone who likes the flavor of pastiera but not the chew of cooked grano, this is the tart to make instead — genuinely different rather than a workaround, with its own name and its own neighborhood. Some families add dark chocolate chips or a splash of Strega to the ricotta mixture, but the lemon stays the point either way.
The recipe
For one 24-26 cm tart, serving 8. Start the dough well ahead — it needs at least 4 hours to chill.
Related
Buon appetito.